LIQUIDS
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Upon returning to the United States, Morgenthal studied and passed the Advanced Level Sommelier Course/Exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers while working as the Wine Steward for The Lodge and Spa at Cordillera Restaurant Picasso in Vail, Colorado. He soon traveled westward to California where he has assumed the role of Wine and Spirits Director and Sommelier for many fine-dining restaurants. Now at Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills, Morgenthal gave SLAMMED his wine choices for a perfect case, and great selections for your wine list. SLAMMED asked Enoteca Drago Wine Director Jeff Morgenthal for 12 wines that are sure to please on any wine list. NV Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs Aÿ, France $45 This small house in the Marne Valley makes a range of wines that have surprising finesse and elegance despite their containing a high percentage of Pinot Meunier. The Blanc de Blancs is a bit of an anomaly because Aÿ is a village better known for its Pinot Noir. The classic Côte des Blancs chalkiness and minerality takes a back seat here to pear, spice and jasmine scents. Try with sashimi. 1999 Gravner Breg Friuli, Italy $115 Josko Gravner is one of the most individual winemakers in the world, an explorer and pioneer known for reinventing his vinification methods more as a process of learning and pushing the envelope rather than a marketing decision. From Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico and vinified in terracotta amphorae with extended maceration periods. Stone fruits galore and caramel released on the nose and palate with slow aeration. A stunner. 1996 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemagne, France $90 If you like tight minerality and intensity, Bonneau de Martray has no equal in the appellation of Corton-Charlemagne. Though not inexpensive, it would be a pity not to get to ever taste this wine. 2002 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano Alto Adige Sauvignon Blanc St. Valentin, Italy $50 Probably the best co-operative winery in the world. How can a winery producing about 2 million bottles retain such amazing consistency across the board? Rarely will Italian Sauvignon show such beguiling elegance and balance. From the famous cellarmaster Hans Terzer, who has set the highest standards for quality. 2002 Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Saarburger Rausch $25 Once in a while, I like to take a bath in a big laser beam of minerals. When this urge overtakes me, Ferdinand Geltz Zilliken’s wines from the Saar are at the forefront of this notion. Intensely minerally and racy wines with a pronounced citrus character, these are the classic representative for long-lived German Riesling. 1999 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets Rhone Valley, France $100 Anywhere there is controversy, interesting and exciting wines are sure to follow. If improving ancient winemaking practices in order to more accurately present the personality of vintage, terroir and cépage, I want to be a part of that revolution. In other words, it doesn’t take a visionary to know that dirty barrels are going to make funky wines. From a great vintage in the Northern Rhône, Les Ruchets is characterized by its black fruits, thick texture and sweet, rich finish. 2000 Chateau Aiguilhe Côtes de Castillon, France $40 People who rise above their humble surroundings always inspire me to do the same. There really wasn’t much worth drinking from Côtes de Castillon until Stephen von Neipperg purchased this estate in the late 90s. For pennies on the dollar compared to the cru-classé elite, the 2000 Aiguilhe is about power, power and polish. New-style Bordeaux. 2001 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat “5 Stelle”Lombardy, Italy $60 In the 16th Century, Da Vinci observed that the mountains surrounding Valtellina are “high and terrible.” The dry, full-bodied Sforzato di Valtellina is pressed from grapes that have been left to dry and concentrate in ventilated lofts. These Nebbiolo-based wines maintain the grape’s typical characteristics, but with their own grace and style. A great wine, which easily stands up to other great wines from both Italy and around the world. 1999 Bodegas Mauro Vendimia Seleccionada (Non DO) Ribera del Duero, Spain $55 Mariano García, winemaker at Vega Sicilia until 1998, is one of Spain’s most accomplished winemakers. Is Alta Expresión perpetuating the internationalization of all wine? I think that it is important to focus on the vineyards from which the wines come and winemakers who have a solid track record of producing exceptional wines. Concentrated and dense, as expected, but still with balance and harmony. Clearly, Spain can no longer be ignored as one of the most important countries producing wine today. 2001 Willakenzie Estate Willamette Valley Aliette Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon $36 It is no secret that Pinot Noir’s Holy Grail continues to be French Burgundy. While it is easy to recommend red Burgundies that are plush and showcase the silky side of Pinot fruit, the best Burgundies may require a second mortgage on your vacation home in Cannes. French winemaker Laurent Montalieu has risen to the top of the class amongst Oregon Pinot Noir. His style is for full rich wines showcasing the bounty of Willamette’s best grapes. Enjoy with roasted salmon and spinach and mushroom stuffing. 1993 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Monte Ca’ Paletta, Italy $250 While there is a lot of talk about appasimento and the drying of grapes for Veneto’s most famous wine, Amarone, the real quality begins in the vineyard. Quintarelli, the dean of Veronese winemakers, is famous for his natural methods of fermentation and prolonged years of aging in large casks. Wines with strong personalities are no accident and often reflect the idiosyncrasies of their creator. This wine is frightfully expensive compared to other Amarones. Thankfully, though, Quintarelli is without equal. 1997 Salvatore Murana Moscato Passito di Pantelleria Martingana Sicily, Italy $100 While Sicily’s current renaissance is focused on making the best dry red and white Sicilian wines in its history, the dessert wines from Sicily have always been of the highest caliber. Local fireman Murana was not the first to make Passito from the volcanic soils of Pantelleria, but he has set the standard. Deeply concentrated and complex from being aged in oak barrels, with spice and orange zest, enjoy this wine on its own as a “vino de meditazione.”
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