FEATURE

by Michael Bloise
THE INTERVIEW
CRITICAL ANALYSIS
METRO
ASIAN PERSUASION
MEETING OF THE MINDS
SECRET CELLAR
VODKA TASTING NOTES
LAST CALL

The memories of fusion cuisine linger in the back of America’s culinary consciousness. Those days of “the Asian Invasion” startled many diners whose tastes were unprepared for the tsunami of Eastern flavors and styles. Today, America’s chefs are rediscovering the wonders of Asian traditions and gradually welcoming them into their kitchens.

 

I was born and raised an American. Although my Vietnamese-Italian heritage may be chic enough nowadays, when I was growing up, being of Asian descent drew snide remarks and jeers. At that time, the best representatives of Asian culture were Martin Yan and Godzilla, both of whom I have a great respect for by the way. Yan was a pioneer—in culinary television and as an ambassador for Chinese culture. As for Godzilla…well, he had his place at the Saturday matinee. The point is that beyond a Chinese cook and a rather large, enraged lizard, we were rarely afforded the opportunity to understand other cultures beyond what high school textbooks offered us. How things change. Asia is everywhere and its influence stretches beyond technology and into our restaurants. But is this more than just a trend?

Back then, Chinese restaurants served Chinese food, American restaurants served American food, and so on. But food styles, like music and architecture, have been influencing one another for centuries. The truth is that every culture is in a perpetual evolution, influenced by the cultures swirling around it. In 2004, next door has never been closer. The Internet has given the globe’s curious masses access to information and provided them the ability to connect to people around the planet. This, no doubt, has accelerated the evolution of food. The sharing of knowledge, the influx of cookbooks by chefs—the newest global celebrities it seems—all drive this amazing interest in cuisines from around the globe. But with all the options, why has Asia so captured the imagination and the palate?

Simplify, Simplify

 

There is an undeniable simplicity in Asian culture. In the hectic, fast-paced, cholesterol-laden lives we live, we seek a balance found in the sensibilities of Asian cuisine. The food that my mother cooked for me was always pure and unadulterated in both quality and flavor. It was simple, straightforward and never overindulgent. As wonderful as my Italian grandmother’s lasagna was (and it was wonderful!), I always felt healthier after eating my Vietnamese mother’s cooking, yet just as satiated. It was low in fat, high in fiber, vitamins and minerals and abundant in flavor. And I’m not talking about pork lo mein and crab rangoon. Those are just the stereotypes. This was food with soul, meaning. Enter the spring roll—soft noodles with tender strips of roasted glazed pork and bean sprouts mixed with refreshing cilantro, basil and mint, wrapped in delicate but durable rice paper. This is food without pretense. 

Ironically, there’s more to the Asian appeal than just the food.  Although I’m over the painfully over-hyped Feng Shui-ing of America, it’s apparent that Americans are seeking ways to simplify and organize their otherwise cluttered lives. We live fast and work hard, seeking the bigger and better, yet wanting peace and tranquility, health and happiness. From that search comes the embrace of Asian sensibilities. We clean up the lines of fashion and décor, simplify the patterns and color schemes. We let light and nature in. From the little bamboo trees at the kiosks in the mall to the bamboo-shaped silverware at the upscale Japanese-Peruvian restaurant, oriental style has found its way into our lives.

America has been, since its inception, a place where disparate cultures come together and blend or, at the very minimum, co-exist. The things we like, we keep, introducing them into our own lives, sharing them with family and friends and creating new traditions. Our future is and always has been dependent on our learning about and accepting the differences and similarities between us--something we generally have a hard time doing. The fact that we have so many multi-ethnic influences present today is evidence of a society trying to find a common link between itself and a stranger world. As we continue to evolve, these cultures will become a part of our own culture. These “trends” will grow beyond that of a flash-in-the-pan marketing scheme and become engrained into our lives, becoming part of the way we eat, drink and be merry.