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| THE INTERVIEW |
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| CRITICAL ANALYSIS |
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| METRO |
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| ASIAN PERSUASION |
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| MEETING OF THE MINDS |
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| SECRET CELLAR |
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| VODKA TASTING NOTES |
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| LAST CALL |
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The memories of fusion
cuisine linger in the back of America’s
culinary consciousness. Those days of “the Asian Invasion” startled
many diners whose tastes were unprepared for the tsunami of Eastern flavors
and styles. Today, America’s chefs are rediscovering the wonders of
Asian traditions and gradually welcoming them into their kitchens.
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I was
born and raised an American. Although my Vietnamese-Italian heritage may
be chic enough nowadays, when I was growing up, being of Asian descent
drew snide remarks and jeers. At that time, the best representatives of Asian
culture were Martin Yan and Godzilla, both of whom I have a great respect
for by the way. Yan was a pioneer—in culinary television and as an
ambassador for Chinese culture. As for Godzilla…well, he had his
place at the Saturday matinee. The point is that beyond a Chinese cook
and a rather large, enraged lizard, we were rarely afforded the opportunity
to understand other cultures beyond what high school textbooks offered
us. How things change. Asia is everywhere and its influence stretches beyond
technology and into our restaurants. But is this more than just a trend?
Back
then, Chinese restaurants served Chinese food, American restaurants served
American food, and so on. But food styles, like music and architecture,
have been influencing one another for centuries. The truth is that every
culture is in a perpetual evolution, influenced by the cultures swirling
around it. In 2004, next door has never been closer. The Internet has given
the globe’s
curious masses access to information and provided them the ability to connect
to people around the planet. This, no doubt, has accelerated the evolution
of food. The sharing of knowledge, the influx of cookbooks by chefs—the
newest global celebrities it seems—all drive this amazing interest
in cuisines from around the globe. But with all the options, why has Asia
so captured the imagination and the palate?
Simplify, Simplify
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There is an
undeniable simplicity in Asian culture. In the hectic, fast-paced, cholesterol-laden
lives we live, we seek a balance found in the sensibilities of Asian
cuisine. The food that my mother cooked for me was always pure and unadulterated
in both quality and flavor. It was simple, straightforward and never
overindulgent. As wonderful as my Italian grandmother’s lasagna was (and it was wonderful!),
I always felt healthier after eating my Vietnamese mother’s cooking,
yet just as satiated. It was low in fat, high in fiber, vitamins and minerals
and abundant in flavor. And I’m not talking about pork lo mein and
crab rangoon. Those are just the stereotypes. This was food with soul, meaning.
Enter the spring roll—soft noodles with tender strips of roasted
glazed pork and bean sprouts mixed with refreshing cilantro, basil and
mint, wrapped in delicate but durable rice paper. This is food without
pretense.
Ironically,
there’s more to the Asian appeal than just the food. Although
I’m over the painfully over-hyped Feng Shui-ing of America, it’s
apparent that Americans are seeking ways to simplify and organize their otherwise
cluttered lives. We live fast and work hard, seeking the bigger and better,
yet wanting peace and tranquility, health and happiness. From that search
comes the embrace of Asian sensibilities. We clean up the lines of fashion
and décor, simplify the patterns and color schemes. We let light
and nature in. From the little bamboo trees at the kiosks in the mall
to the bamboo-shaped silverware at the upscale Japanese-Peruvian restaurant,
oriental style has found its way into our lives.
America
has been, since its inception, a place where disparate cultures come
together and blend or, at the very minimum, co-exist. The things we like,
we keep, introducing them into our own lives, sharing them with family
and friends and creating new traditions. Our future is and always has
been dependent on our learning about and accepting the differences and
similarities between us--something we generally have a hard time doing.
The fact that we have so many multi-ethnic influences present today is
evidence of a society trying to find a common link between itself and
a stranger world. As we continue to evolve, these cultures will become
a part of our own culture. These “trends” will
grow beyond that of a flash-in-the-pan marketing scheme and become engrained
into our lives, becoming part of the way we eat, drink and be merry. |
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